Surfactantes e Pele
- Lucas Portilho
- May 7, 2021
- 2 min read
Updated: Jan 4, 2023
Estava lendo essa manhã um estudo publicado com o título "The influence of surfactants and hydrolyzed proteins on keratinocytes viability and elasticity" e gostaria de dividir com vocês.
Todos sabemos que surfactantes prejudicam nossa pele, mas este estudo em particular é interessante porque mostra a alteração nos filamentos de actina dos queratinócitos. Pra quem não sabe, entre todos os filamentos que compõe o citoesqueleto dos queratinócitos, os filamentos de actina são os principais responsáveis pela manutenção da resistência e da resiliência da célula. Por isso se usarmos muito produtos de limpeza com tensoativos agressivos, como o lauril sulfato de sódio, teremos células mais fracas em nossa epiderme. Além disso, o estudo cita os benefícios de um colágeno hidrolisado de baixo peso molecular. Neste caso temos no mercado ativos como o Rellagen ou mesmo o Oligo HA, ambos com baixo peso molecular e que podem ser uma alternativa para minimizar os danos causados pelos surfactantes.
Surfactantes mais suaves
Lembre-se sempre que também podemos substituir os surfactantes mais agressivos por outros mais suaves. Segue uma lista pra ajudar vocês:
STEPAN-MILD® LSB
Empresa: Stepan
INCI Name: Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (and) Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
Sensactive L-30
Empresa: Chemyunion
INCI Name: Water (and) Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Plantapon® LGC Sorb
Empresa: BASF Latin America
INCI Name: Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate (and) Lauryl Glucoside
Plantaren® 2000 N UP
Empresa: BASF Latin America
INCI Name: Decyl Glucoside
Plantaren® 1200 N UP
Empresa: BASF Latin America
INCI Name: Lauryl Glucoside
AMISOFT® ECS-22SB
Empresa: Ajinomoto Do Brasil
INCI Name: Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate (and) Water
K-noa Foam
Empresa: Alianza Magistral
INCI Name: Saponin/ Chenopodium Quinoa Extract
Abraços!
Lucas Portilho
Kobiela T, Lelen-Kaminska K, Stepulak M, Lekka M, Malejczyk M, Arct J, Majewski S. The influence of surfactants and hydrolyzed proteins on keratinocytes viability and elasticity. Skin Res Technol. 2013 Feb;19(1):e200-8. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0846.2012.00628.x. Epub 2012 Jun 7. PMID: 22671986.
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